Wednesday, October 1

Practically perfect perennials

Seven plants for every garden

At home under a Prairiefire crabapple tree, Hakonechloa macra anchors the late-summer perennial border. Photo/Mary Ellen Smith

I’ve been gardening for more than 30 years. During that time, countless plants have come and gone in my borders. A few — a very few — have grown old along with me.

Some plants are worth extra effort. Their blooms or scent, fall color or winter form, just can’t be equaled. But a garden full of ‘extra effort plants’ can become a chore rather than a pleasure. So even though these perennials tend to be supporting players (perhaps with the exception of the Fireworks goldenrod), their workhorse nature should earn them a place in every garden.

To make my list, a plant must have been pest and disease free in my garden, experienced no dieback (even after the harshest winters) and suffered no mug-out (even during the hottest and most humid summers). It must not need staking and it must not be invasive, either by root or seed. It must also not need any special care to stay ‘perfect.’

Admittedly, that’s asking a lot. But meet the basic cultural requirements of these seven, and I guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

Hakone grass (Hakonechloa macra)

I grow several varieties of this shade-loving ornamental grass — All Gold, Aureola, and new this year, Beni Kazi. All are great plants in my opinion, but my favorite is still the species. It forms a mophead of simple green strappy leaves that rustle and sway in the breeze and provide wonderful textural contrast in my borders — especially with other, bolder-leafed shade plants like hosta and heuchera. Though it grows about 2 feet high and 4 feet wide in five years, I tend to divide mine every couple of years just because I want more.

The species is listed as hardy to Zone 4, but most cultivars are only rated to Zone 6. I’ve never had a hardiness problem with any of them here in my Zone 5 garden, but be aware that could change with an ‘old fashioned’ winter. If you prefer the newer varieties, you’ll also want to grow them in some sun for the best coloration.
The only maintenance this plant requires is a haircut (to the ground) in late winter or early spring.

Hosta ‘June’

Every time I make a list of favorite plants, June is there. The plant’s thick, slug-proof leaves and sensational variegation won me over long ago. June grows about 2 feet tall and wide. This is another plant for bright shade if you want the best coloration. (In the photo, I’ve mixed June with Veronica ‘Georgia Blue’ to bring out her blue-green variegation.)

Clematis ‘Polish Spirit’

I’ve grown many clematis over the years. I started with the large-flowered varieties but had problems with clematis wilt, so I switched to the vitecellas. They produce smaller flowers (2-3 inches) but there are more of them and they bloom longer than their larger cousins.

Polish Spirit produces deep, rich purple flowers from mid-summer to late fall. Since it flowers on new wood, there is never any question in my mind about how to prune it. (Just lop the whole thing off in early spring to a healthy bud about a foot from the ground.) Another plus is the fact the vitecellas bloom well with just a half-day of sunlight. Grows 8-12 feet tall.

Serbian bellflower (Campanula poscharskyana)

The star-shaped, lavender-blue blossoms of this perennial arrive in droves in May and June and the foliage stays fresh and bright green throughout the season. Poscharskyana grows less than a foot high and about as wide, but sprawling flower stems make it appear much wider while it’s in bloom. When the flowers get past their prime, just grab the spent flower stalks and give a tug to tidy up. They come right off.

I also grow the cultivar Blue Waterfall and although it reblooms (the species doesn’t), I’ve had some problems with crown rot — something that has never happened with the species. Grow either in full or part sun. They are fully hardy to -30 degrees.

Chinese astilbe (Astilbe chinensis var. pumila)

I originally bought this plant after seeing it advertised in a garden catalog, where it was planted in combination with lily of the valley. In my ignorance, I copied the design only to spend many hours since trying to eradicate the rampant convallaria. The astilbe, though, has stayed. Shorter than most other astilbes (about a foot tall), I use this as a shady ground cover under hostas and with ferns. It blooms at a good time of year (late July through late August) and has nice fuzzy, lilac-pink flowers. I do have one caveat: Although more drought tolerant than most astilbe, pumila will go brown in very dry conditions.

Variegated Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum odoratum Variegatum)

This is such a classic, elegant shade plant. Its apple green leaves are edged in white. Although it does bloom in spring, the flowers are small and hang down along the stems, making them pretty inconspicuous unless you go looking for them. The plant’s gracefully arching stems reach about 2 feet tall, and though it does spread, it will take several years to form a colony.

Goldenrod Fireworks (Solidago rugosa ‘Fireworks’)

This is the newest addition to my ‘perfect’ list. I’ve only been growing Fireworks for about three years now, but during that time it’s been moved twice and divided once and has performed well in all locations. Until September, Fireworks serves as a rather tall (3-4 foot) shrubby backdrop, but once it blooms, it takes center stage. The long golden flowers burst from the plant like skyrockets.

Fireworks will grow in full sun or part shade and though it prefers well-drained soils, it adapts well to our clay.

As editor of Ornamentals & Edibles, Mary Ellen Smith combines 17 years of journalism experience with a life-long love of gardening.