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 Sunday, December 16
The seductive amaryllis
Nothing can break the gloom of a dreary day in the dead of winter like a plant in full, glorious bloom. And, of all the flowering bulbs that you can grow indoors, the amaryllis (Hippeastrum species) is one of the most impressive. Available in shades of white, pale green, yellow, orange, salmon, pink and brilliant red, some even have colored throats, stripes, flecks or picotee edging (a fine, darker line around the edges of the petals).
Usually sold in the dormant state in the fall or early winter, amaryllis bulbs can come individually packaged, in bulk, or in pre-packaged and pre-planted boxed sets. Not all are created equal. Price is usually proportional to the size of the bulb. And, as a general rule, larger, more expensive bulbs will produce more stalks and larger flowers than smaller bulbs of the same variety. Newer varieties and cultivars, especially double flowering and exotics, will also cost more than traditional singles.
Varieties
There are five types of Amaryllis bulbs: single, double, miniature, cybister, and trumpet. Cybisters, a new class listed occasionally as "exotics," have extremely thin petals and are often described as spider-like. An example is 'Ruby Meyer' with its thin, ruby-red petals with chartreuse markings. Trumpets, such as the snow white 'Amputo,' have slightly fragrant, flared, tube-shaped flowers resembling Easter lilies. The term 'double' or "double flowering" refers to the number of petals in each flower, not the number of blossoms per stalk. Some popular white- and red-striped doubles include 'Razzmatazz' and the bold, ruffled, frilled and striped -- almost over the top -- 'Dancing Queen.' Miniatures, sometimes erroneously called dwarfs, are spectacular in their own right. Although smaller in bulb and blossom size and shorter in stature than their typical larger cousins, these beauties, such as the deep warm-red 'Top Choice,' can produce clusters of up to 12 flowers per bulb. And finally, there are the single (or large flowering) amaryllis, which are the most common and popular of the family.
Doing a quick search on the Web, I found more than 200 different cultivars and hybrids currently available from various suppliers, with around 25 new cultivars coming on the market each year. So don't limit yourself to the tried and true varieties. Though I yearly grow scads of the old holiday favorite 'Grand Cru,' I am also partial to the majestic pink and white 'Appleblossom,' the fiery, paprika-red blooms of 'Monaco,' and one of the newer doubles, the sugar-frosted, sizzling salmon and white combination of 'Lady Jane.' Another favorite -- a far cry from anything you'll find in the local garden center -- is 'Chico,' with its ivory, soft green and deep burgundy petals arching backwards like the wings of some fantastic tropical bird. It never ceases to amaze me with its striking form!
Cultural requirements
While you can grow amaryllis bulbs in soil or water, the most reliable method is in soil. Choose a pot with adequate drainage holes that is just about an inch wider than the widest diameter of your bulb. Resist the urge to give the bulb lots of room. Amaryllis likes to be root-bound. Though it will grow in any type of container, a heavy clay pot will offset the weight of the top-heavy stalks.
Amaryllis bulbs have thick, fleshy roots. Though not absolutely necessary, soaking the roots for an hour or two in a shallow container of warm (not hot) water will make the roots pliable and easier to spread out in the pot. Just make sure that the bulb itself stays dry and only the roots are immersed in water.
Carefully position the bulb in the center of the pot, and using a good quality commercial potting mix, plant it so that at least one-third to one-half of the bulb is above the soil line. At this point, water well, but never leave the pot in standing water.
Native to tropical parts of the world, amaryllis need warmth, light and moisture to rouse themselves from their dormancy, so place the container in a warm, well-lit spot, keeping it on the dry side until growth begins.
Water sparingly until the stem appears, then keep the soil moist, but not wet. Rotate the pot a quarter turn every time you water to prevent the flower stalks from leaning toward the light; but once in flower, move the plant out of direct sunlight to prolong the life of the blooms.
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Flowering period
Bulbs should start flowering in six to 10 weeks. Set up your planting schedule between October and April with this in mind. For continuous bloom, either stagger plantings at two-week intervals or plant bulbs with different bloom periods, such as 'Vera' for early bloom, 'Red Lion,' which should bloom one to two weeks later, and finally, the shy ones such as 'Las Vegas,' which should bloom last. But remember, plant growth and development is influenced by many factors, and precise bloom times are hard to predict.
After-bloom care
Preparation for the following year's flowers starts as soon as the current blooms fade. Cut the spent flowers from the stem after flowering, and when the stem starts to sag, cut it back to the top of the bulb. Leave the long strap-shaped leaves that emerge from the center of the bulb alone, as they are needed to regenerate the flowering capability of the bulb. An amaryllis must produce at least four large, healthy leaves in the summer growing season before it can send up a scape the following year. Water when the soil surface starts to dry and fertilize with a weak solution every two or three weeks.
Once nighttime temperatures stay above 60 degrees, you can move the potted amaryllis outdoors to a sheltered spot with dappled shade for its summer vacation.
Well before the first frost, stop watering and fertilizing the plant. In a few weeks all the leaves will yellow and turn a crispy brown. Pull the dead leaves off and bring the pot inside. Remove the top two to four inches of soil and pull the bulb up out of the pot. Inspect roots for signs of disease, parasites, or rot, and if the bulb and roots look healthy, put them back in the same pot, replacing the soil with some new. Put the now dormant bulb, pot and all, in a cool, dark place to rest for at least eight weeks.
Since the bulb will rebloom about eight weeks after the time it first receives water and heat, pick a period when you want to see it bloom in winter, count back eight weeks, and start the process all over again. After a couple of years, when the bulb has grown to the edge of the pot, it's time to repot in a new container. Some people separate the mother bulb from its offsets, but I prefer to leave the clumps intact, moving them to a larger pot. Then, after several years, the mass of bulbs sends up numerous stalks for a truly spectacular sight.
 Author of "In Search of Great Plants: The Insider's Guide to the Best Plants in the Midwest," Betty Earl is a Master Gardener, photographer and lecturer. She writes for several regional gardening magazines, is a garden scout for both Better Homes & Gardens and Midwest Living magazines, and also serves as a regional representative for the Garden Conservancy. She lives and gardens in Naperville.
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