Column Extra: Sharpening and maintaining your pruners
By Glen O. Seibert

Using a brand new pair of pruners is like putting on a fresh pair of sneakers--they just feel wonderful. But as much as we'd like to keep the crisp "sssa-snick!" of those tightly-tuned, razor-sharp blades, a hard working edge is going to wear.

There are several brands of pruners these days that feature replaceable blades and anti-stick coatings. But for us traditionalists who prefer the "legacy" models like the Corona 3130 I've had since college, here's the technique for keeping the tool clean, sharp and tuned to "out of the box" condition.

1. Disassemble the pruners
Different pruner brands are constructed in slightly different ways, but all have the hook and blade sections, an adjustable bolt that serves as an axle, and a spring that pushes the pruners open between cuts.

Take the tool apart by twisting the spring off its support posts. Loosen and remove the nut and bolt and the handles will separate. Soak the blade, hook, axle bolt and spring in WD-40® or similar rust-cutting lubricant.

2. Clean the surfaces
Use a stiff toothbrush or soft-brass wire brush to scrub off dirt and dried sap, especially out of the sap groove along the inner edge of the hook section. You may need to use a strong solvent like PineSol®, Murphy Oil Soap® or even turpentine to dissolve the pitch.

Wipe the parts clean and dry, then soak badly rusted parts in the lubricant for several hours if necessary.

Polish off the rust with a piece of medium-fine grade 0 or fine grade 00 steel wool saturated with WD-40.

3. Find the angle
The secret to super sharp pruners, or any cutting tool, is keeping the angle consistent along the edge. If you change the angle of the sharpening stone from one stroke to the next, you'll either round the edge over or start a new, shallower cut that doesn't address the original edge at all. A Kinsman jig makes it easy to keep a precise, consistent angle. Attach the clamp to the back of the cutting blade and insert the silicon carbide stone/swing arm into the different holes on the frame until the stone's angle matches the angle on the edge of the blade.

4. Sharpen the edge
Lubricate the blade and stone with WD-40 and swing the arm from the heel of the blade to the tip in a smooth, fluid motion. You'll see a thin silver line of shiny new metal all along the properly sharpened edge. Turn the blade over and pass the stone flat across the back to remove any burrs.

5. Reassemble and fine-tune the gap
Put the sections back together with the bolt and reinstall the spring. Close the handles and cinch the nut down tight so the blades stay closed without latching. Now, holding one handle, start to loosen the nut just until the spring opens the pruners. This will give you the minute clearance needed for that satisfying snip and surgical clip. If the parts are properly aligned you won't see any light between the blade and the hook.