Water wonders

Why is it that watering from the hose never seems to make my plants grow? I can water all day with sprinklers and my plants just sit there; but a little rain makes a big difference.

Rainwater is different than water from any other source. Rain is essentially distilled, pure water made up only of hydrogen and oxygen. Without getting too technical here, rain droplets possess a molecular structure that is organized; they are neutral in pH and have low surface tension. Other water sources are disorganized, have high surface tension and an altered pH. If you are on city water, your hose will also supply low levels of chlorine, fluoride and other chemicals that are slightly toxic to plants. Rainwater is also introduced into the soil in an even, soft manner that is better for moving into the soil. The low surface tension of the droplets helps by keeping them cohesive and allowing them to move into the soil more efficiently and ultimately to be taken up into roots more efficiently.

When you consider the myriad treatments we use to alter non-rainwater sources for drinking, cooking, laundry and so on, it is not surprising that plants find them less than perfect too.

Incidentally, the lightning associated with rain greens up grass and plants by creating nitrogen in the atmosphere.

Wigging out

Earwigs are eating everything in my garden. They are even getting in my house. Is there any way to control them?

Which do you want first, the bad news or the bad news? Earwigs are an unwelcome presence in all of our lives, but to gardeners they are a real menace. The adults overwinter in hiding places and the females lay 30 or so eggs in chambers an inch or two underground in the spring. She tends the nymphs until they are fully developed, at which time they begin chewing on plants. They are indiscriminate and feed mainly at night when we are least likely to observe them on leaves.

Due to their propensity for hiding, contact sprays are pretty useless. Sprays or dust containing bifenthrin (Talstar) or deltamethrin (Suspend) applied around a home’s foundation, garden walls and other structures can be effective in reducing overwintering populations but they are not without risks and must be applied by licensed professionals. These products must also be used at the time of year when more of the earwigs will be hiding, usually early spring.

You can sprinkle Sevin dust under outdoor rugs, stepping stones and so forth but once again, this will only reduce populations, not eliminate them and the use of any pesticide carries a risk. I prefer to trap large numbers of them with loose rolls of wet newspaper. Simply pick up the rolls during the heat of mid day and drop them into plastic bags. Tie the bags tightly and dispose of them.

A lost cause?

We planted over a hundred trees this spring (dogwoods, maples and poplars) and lost every one of them. It is not possible to water the acre of ground where we want to establish trees. Should we just give up?

Part of the answer to your dilemma lies in the question itself. You say you planted the trees in the spring. It would be better to plant the trees in the fall, even late fall after the trees have hardened off and begun to go dormant.

Choose trees that can withstand tough conditions. If the land is relatively undisturbed, look around to see what trees are growing there naturally. If you are developing a cornfield or re-foresting a new development, choose hardwood trees like Chinquapin oak, red oak, hybrid maples (Red Sunset, Autumn Blaze, etc.) and ginkgo. Buy young trees. Younger trees will establish more easily than older, larger trees and they will ‘catch up’ quickly to become as large. You may also want to investigate bare root trees, which can be ordered in the spring, before bud break, and in the fall, after leaf drop. These are typically inexpensive when ordered in larger quantities and make partial losses less painful.

Although it may seem expensive, look into using tree bags (irrigation bags) to help establish young trees. They can be ordered on the Internet or you can fashion your own by making a small drip hole in 10- gallon pails. Carry the filled bags or pails out to your trees with a garden cart or tractor and allow them to drip right next to the trunk. The physical bulk of the water vessel will also shade roots and protect against moisture loss. It is essential to mulch the newly planted trees to conserve moisture but do not mound it up around the trunks.

Finally, consider the use of hydro-gel coatings for bare root trees or soil moist crystals in the planting holes of container or balled and burlapped trees. These polymers will hold up to 100 times their weight in water and release it slowly to roots.

Mums the word

Whenever I plant mums in the fall they quickly dry up into little sticks and they don’t come back in the spring. I have clay soil and I water frequently. Other people have beautiful mums; what am I doing wrong?

Planting mums in the fall is tricky business. People enjoy buying mums in the fall when they are beautifully displayed at garden centers but they really are better off when planted in the spring. Those that are coaxed into bloom for fall display are somewhat stressed and less vigorous than young plants purchased in the spring. Spring planting also allows plenty of time for root development before winter.

That being said, you can take steps to ensure a better ‘return’ on your investment. Begin by buying healthy plants from a garden center that waters and cares for its stock. Plants that are repeatedly allowed to wilt are doomed to failure. Look for plants that are in bud, but not yet in full bloom. Mums like loose soil that drains readily and will often rot in heavy clay soil during the winter, so plant them in the most well drained, sunny location you can provide. Some mums are ideal for planting in the ground. Dendranthema types like ‘Mary Stoker’, ‘Sheffield Pink’, ‘Single Late Korean Apricot’ and ‘Illusion’ are easy to grow and bloom late without pinching.

You can also try leaving mums in their pots over winter to plant in the spring. Keep them in an unheated garage, water them once a month or so and cut them back when new growth emerges at the base of the stems.