Bleaching beech

I am considering removing my tri-color beech tree because the leaves bleach out and become unattractive each summer. Do they all do this or did I get a bad tree? J. B. Kankakee, IL

The deep pink leaf color of the tri-color beech (Fagus sylvaticus ‘roseo-marginata’) makes it a very sought after selection among ornamental trees. European beeches do not respond well to the extreme heat we sometimes experience in the Midwest and this will indeed bleach out the leaves, as well as stunting growth to some degree. The same trees, growing in Seattle, will be vivid all summer and grow much larger.

Only those plants native to areas of extreme heat continue to grow when temperatures reach 85 degrees F. Others (most Europeans and Asians) stop photosynthesis at temperatures above 85 degrees F. This causes plants to use reserves of food stored in the roots and results in slower growth. It also makes leaf color fade and even turn brown on the edges.

Proper placement of tri-color beech will mitigate the damage. They need morning sun and afternoon shade during heat extremes. You may also have noticed that those hot, windy days that we get in May take their toll on the delicate pink leaves, so some protection from wind is also advised. Beech trees can be moved in the spring before they leaf out. Watering during dry periods is necessary.

Only you can decide whether or not the spring foliage is worth enduring the pale look at summer’s end, but I am keeping mine.

Incidentally, there are two tri-color beech trees. The most often associated with the term tri-color in the trade is Fagus sylvatica ‘roseo-marginata.’ It is taller and more slender with a more open habit and most often bears extremely hot pink and cream leaves in spring. The other is Fagus sylvatica purpurea ‘tri-color.’ This tree has a wider, somewhat weeping habit and the variegated leaves are more subdued in color, being pale pink and cream in spring and deepening to wine in summer. Both trees are variable and if you want the hottest pink leaves, buy the tree in late May or early June when the leaf color is most evident.

A salty situation

I have been using salt to de-ice my porch and sidewalk, but I am growing concerned about the effects this may have on my shrubs. Do I need to worry? D.H. Ashkum, IL

Small amounts of de-icing salt probably won’t harm your plants, but heavy or repeated use over years may take a toll. Some plants, such as pine, are more salt sensitive than others are. It is helpful to thoroughly flush the salts through the soil in early spring. Salt is also very corrosive to your concrete or brick surfaces.

While they won’t actually melt the ice as much as salt will, birdseed, sand or kitty litter can be used to provide traction and are all more environmentally safe to use. Inexpensive urea fertilizer will melt salt, but take care not to allow it to get on surfaces that will drain into storm sewers. Fertilizer run-off is very damaging to waterways.

Calcium chloride and magnesium chloride are readily available de-icing salts that are less corrosive and damaging to plants than sodium chloride. The best product, albeit the most expensive, is calcium magnesium acetate (CMA) which is no more corrosive than tap water and completely biodegradable. It will melt salt in temperatures as low as 25 degrees below zero.

Must-have books

I see many books on gardening that I am tempted to buy, but I have a modest budget for books. Are there any ‘must own’ books for gardeners? G. H., Wilmington, IL

Check your local library for gardening books; they may surprise you and offer many of the latest titles. Garden clubs may also offer book loans or exchanges at their meetings.

Some of the books that we would not want to be without are:

“Manual of Woody Landscape Plants: Their Identification, Ornamental Characteristics, Culture, Propagation and Uses” by Dr. Michael Dirr
This book is a bible for landscapers and gardeners alike. There are several versions available, the oldest and most comprehensive being a textbook like version without photos. It can be found on-line. The newer, photo versions are more commonly available and list some updated varieties. Dr. Dirr lived and worked in Urbana for years and knows the Central Illinois climate.

“An Encyclopedia of Shade Perennials” by George Schenk
This is probably the most comprehensive listing of shade loving plants and an essential for gardeners who lack sunlight. Ken Druse’s “The Natural Shade Garden” should also be included for its ability to inspire.

Since all gardens should include a healthy dose of spring wildflowers, “The New England Wild Flower Society Guide to Growing and Propagating Wildflowers of the United States and Canada” would be a great addition; especially since wildflower info rarely changes.

“Bulbs for Garden Habitats” is a hefty book that will tell you everything you need to know about flowers from bulbs. Pam Duthie’s “Continuous Color: A Month-by-Month Guide to Shrubs and Small Trees for the Continuous Bloom Garden” and “Continuous Bloom” are info-packed, well-rounded guides to adding seasonal color with perennials and shrubs. “Ferns for American Gardens” is the best book on garden type ferns.

For all around gardening wisdom and developing a sound, ecologically based garden ethic, you just can’t beat Roger Swain’s “Groundwork: A Gardener's Ecology.” It should be mandatory reading before one is given a ‘license’ to plant.

In general, look to see if a book you are considering is written by and for American gardeners. Many books come from England and should be considered merely inspirational. Books hailing from the Pacific Northwest may also be considered slightly less instructional for Midwest gardeners. And lastly, if a garden book is found on the ‘remainder’ tables at the bookstore, it is probably there for a reason. The best books are always in demand and usually well into a succession of reprints.

Catalogue plants

Each January I get dozens of plant and seed catalogues in the mail, but I don’t know anything about these companies. They all show close-up pictures of flowers and leaves, but very few of them show pictures of the plants they will ship. What should I expect if I order? P.K., Fort Wayne, IN

Plant and seed catalogues are a very valuable resource and tool for most gardeners. They are especially helpful in learning Latin names for plants, and perusing them all winter prepares you to seek out new and exciting additions to the garden come spring. Request as many as you can, but to keep them coming you may need to order from them occasionally. A good, comprehensive catalogue like Wayside Gardens is also worth paying for. Remember that it is very costly for these companies to produce beautiful color catalogues. And because it is costly to print catalogues, you may pay somewhat higher prices for plants, plus shipping, than you would at your local garden center.

To help you evaluate a mail order company, consider the following: Do they use Latin names? If not, you can’t be certain what you are ordering. What is their replacement policy? Can you get a full refund for damaged material or a replacement only? What if the plant doesn’t thrive? Can you request a refund later? Is there a garden center at a physical site behind the company (like White Flower Farm in Connecticut) or is it a warehouse operation? Companies that sell from real garden centers typically ship larger, truer-to-name plants. I would not order from any firm that uses drawings instead of photographs for illustration.

Some newer plants may be available from catalogues earlier than they would be found at the local garden center. If you wish to have the latest and trendiest cultivars, it makes sense to order them. If you can wait, you will probably find larger plants for less at the garden center in a year or two. (I actually paid $15.00 in 1985 for a Stella D’Oro daylily that was one inch tall.) Some catalogues, especially those that specialize in a particular genus or plant type, offer plants seldom encountered in the trade. If you are a collector of, say, lilies or clematis, you will need to order from mail order firms to get the most esoteric types. Some catalogues offer older, less common plants like gooseberries, rhubarb or annual seeds like Bachelor’s Buttons that are rarely seen in garden centers.

Most plants will be shipped bare root or in small containers. Bare root plants may still be dormant and leafless, or they may have broken dormancy and have begun to leaf out. They will have roots that are wrapped in wet newsprint or other material and then covered in plastic. Most will be very small, but have a good root system. Remember that it is the root system you are buying. Sometimes, these plants will be the same size plants that you would get in a quart container at the garden center, sans dirt. Plants shipped in containers, especially trees and shrubs, will also be very small, but should be well rooted.

When deciding whether or not to order from a catalogue, it is helpful to think about the growth rate of the plants in question. An 18-inch oak tree will take 10 years to make an impact in your garden. A slip from a chrysanthemum will provide you with cuttings for friends in two seasons.

Fungus problem

I was thinking of moving my fungus ravaged golden ninebarks in the spring to see if better air circulation would help. The diseased leaves are still clinging. Do I need to pull them off before the move to avoid bringing the infection to their new home? M. S., Momence, IL

Golden ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Dart’s Gold’ or ‘Luteus’) is a tough plant that will take sun or shade and adapt to high or low pH soils. Mildew isn’t always a problem for this plant the way it is with, say, lilacs. It is possible that the extreme heat and humidity last summer were hard on your plants. However, if the problem is ongoing, it couldn’t hurt to improve air circulation and perhaps add a bit more sun. Plants can be moved in spring or fall.

If the leaves cling too long, you can either remove them in the spring or cut stems back to about six inches to renew the plants. Clean up any fallen leaves and consider spraying the ground and emerging foliage in the spring with a baking soda and water solution (1 tablespoon per gallon) to reduce mildew.